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Spa Error Code
We recommend contacting your local Certified Tech or Dealer to assist you in diagnosing your technical issues.
Below are some common error issues and some tips on checking or resolving the issue. If you do need assistance identifying a part for your spa, see the Contact Us info.
Need an Owner's Manual? Click on this link for all Sundance® Spas Manuals: Sundance Spa Owner Manuals
Sundance Spas® Tech Tips: Some of the most common error codes for Sundance and some tech tips to assist you:
1. WATCHDOG Error Code: - - - or - - - -
The most common cause of the Watchdog error code are the sensors, specifically the temperature sensor. When the spa goes into the Watchdog the spa will not operate.
This is how it happens: When you try to use the spa, you will see 3 or 4 dashes on the control panel (depends upon the model). If you try and reset your breaker, sometimes it comes on but it will probably go back into Watchdog error - - - -. Most common cause for Watchdog is the Temperature Sensor. We have alot of people replace the high limit also and it could also be an issue.
Because this is the most common issue and one that is the least expensive to replace, We recommend you having a spare set of the Temperature and High limits in case this happens (and usually happens at the worst of times)
Here is the link for the Temperature and High Limit Sensors: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/sundancetemperaturesensors-2.aspx
2. Temperature Incorrect or OH
Another issue that comes up and is an indication of a bad temp sensor is the temperature reading becomes inaccurate or the spa is going into the OH error code. If you power the spa down and power it back up it may work for a while but will do the same thing again. You need to replace the Temp Sensor.
See this link for the Temperature and High Limit Sensors and also a link to the Temperature and High Limit Sensor Diagnostic Guide and Harness Diagram: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/sundancetemperaturesensors-2.aspx
3. FLO or OH Error Code
These instructions are for spas with a Flow Switch not a pressure switch. See part numbers: 6560-852, 6560-857, 6560-860 or 2560-040 for your switch type. If your control panel is "Flashing" FLO or OH then these are the items to consider: It is either a Dirty Filter, Defective Flow Switch or Defective Circ Pump.
1. Dirty Filter: even when you have cleaned the filter, the filter may be impacted and be time for a new filter. The only way to test this is to make sure there is no loose debris in the spa, then pull the filter out and see if the flow error goes away, if it does, it is the filter.
2. Defective Circ Pump or Flow Switch: Need to check for Circ Pump operation. Is there voltage going to pump, Is there adequate Flow coming out of Heater Port in Spa?
Testing to see if Circ Pump or Flow Switch. Note: This test only works on 850 Series with Circulation Pump prior to 2001: Try turning the #1 pump which is 2 speed. If this pump goes on on Low Speed or High Speed (if your spa has been configured for 60 amps to run the heater on high speed, note: the heater will not come on if it was not configured for 60 amps by the dealer when delivered, otherwise the heater only comes on in the Low Speed) and the Heater comes on then you Circulation Pump is defective and needs to be replaced. If the heater does not come on at all then more than likely the Flow Switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
3. Flow Switch Test: You can test to see if the Flow Switch is defective by doing a continuity test on the flow switch by testing the 2 leads from the flow switch with the Pump off (no continuity) and Pump on (continuity). Do not bypass the Flow Switch: this could cause a potential dryfire of the heater and melt down of the heater system.
4. FL1 or FL 2 Error Code
FL1: Flow or pressure switch not closed when pump is running. Heater is deactivated. Proper water flow is inhibited or flow/pressure switch may be obstructed, misaligned, or defective.Troubleshooting Steps:1. Remove filter and allow air to bleed out of filter. Check filter for trapped air.2. Check for proper water level.3. Check for clogged filter.4. Check secondary screen filter (Solo Models only)5. Check for sticking or damaged weir gate.6. Check for Flow/Pressure Switch problem.FL2: Flow switch or pressure switch closed when pump is not running. Heater is deactivated and pump may not turn on. Flow/pressure switch is defective.Testing Flow/Pressure SwitchThese steps should only be taken after checking and testing the above steps.Testing Flow Switch (Portofino Models Only) Test the Flow Switch Operation: With the circ pump and the main pump off, test switch operation with an ohmmeter in the continuity position, test for continuity across switch terminals. Measure resistance across switch terminals for infinite resistance. With the circ pump and the main pump on, test switch operation with an ohmmeter in the continuity position, test for continuity across switch terminals. Measure resistance across switch terminals for continuity. With the circ pump on and the main pump off (Portofino Models with Circulation Pump), test switch operation with an ohmmeter meter in the continuity position, test for continuity across switch terminals. Measure resistance across switch terminals for continuity. If there is no continuity, turn the main pump back on, if you then have continuity, then your Circulation Pump is suspect. The Circulation Pump may be plugged up with debris or it is defective. If the Flow Switch test OK in all the above instances, check switch wiring harness. If wiring harness tests ok, then the Circuit Board is possibly defective.
Here is the link for Flow and Pressure Switches: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/sundancespasflowandpressureswitches.aspxTesting Pressure Switch (Sweetwater Models) Test the Pressure Switch Operation: Disconnect wires from Switch terminals. Set ohmmeter in the continuity position. Measure resistance across switch terminals for infinite resistance with pump off. If continuity is measured with pump off, the switch is defective. (Or debris blockage, l which you have to remove switch and inspect. If debris is present, remove debris, install switch and test system. If condition still exist, replace switch.) if switch measures infinite (no continuity) with pump off, switch is OK, Turn on Main pump and measure across switch terminals for continuity. If continuity is measured, switch is OK. Check wiring harness, If wiring harness tests OK, then Circuit Board is possibly defective.
5. SN1 or SN 2 Error CodesSn1 Error Code: Heater is deactivated. High-limit sensor located in the heater drywell is nonfunctional.Sn3: Heater is deactivated. Main temperature sensor located in filter bucket is nonfunctional.
See Temperature Sensor Diagnostic Guide: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/sundancespastemperaturesensordiagnostic.aspx6. ILOC Error Code
ILOC Error Code: Hot Tub is deactivated. Check interlock jumper located on the sensor harness. Also Turn Power off to spa at breaker and then turn system back on.
7. Winterizing your Spa
Your Sundance Spa is designed to automatically protect itself against freezing when operating properly. During periods of severe freezing temperatures, you should check periodically to be certain that the electrical supply to the spa has not been interrupted. In extreme bitter cold weather (less than -20 degrees F) verify standard mode is selected to protect the spa from freezing.
If you do not intend to use the spa or you have a mechanical issue, or if there is a prolonged power outage during periods of severe freezing temperatures, it is important that all water be removed from the spa and equipment and plumbing lines to protect against damage from frrezing.
Expert winterization of your spa is highly recommended, contact your local Sundance Dealer.
Here are some hints to assist you:
1. Follow your owner's manual for draining the spa
2. Turn the massage/diverter valve(s) to open position to allow the water in the plumbing lines to drain (You would put the knob halfway between the 2 settings for jets). See your owner's manual.
3. Turn the waterfall valve(s) to the open position to allow the water in the plumbing lines to drain.
4. As the water level drops below the seats, use whatever means necessary to get the water out of the recessed seating areas and into the footwell.
5. When the water level ceases to drop, use whatever means available to remove any remaining water from the foot well, such as a wet/dry shop vac.
6. Remove the equipment side cabinet panels and locate the drain plugs in the front of each pump. Remove these plugs to allow ater to drain out of the pumps and heater.
7. Loosen clamp at bottom of heater and pull hose off of heater fitting (twist the hose back and forth while pulling downward. Tip hose down and allow to drain, then reinstall hose and clamp.
8. Take your Wet/Dry Shop Vac and use the suction over each jet and opeing to vac out any water left inside the jets, valve, air system.
9. Reinstall cabinet sides and cover spa so that no moisture can enter it. Consult your local dealer if you have any question on winterizing your spa.
Have a Tech Question or Request? Please email us at this link: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/contact-us.aspx
Tech Support is here to assist you in identifying and selecting the right part for your year and model of spa. Most electrical components are interrelated and one item that seems to be the issue may be related to something else that is causing the issue. Many service related issues cannot be diagnosed without being infield at the spa. We highly recommend that you use a qualified Service Tech to assist you with infield diagnosis.